My 1/4” ratchet was too big for the space, so I put one layer of electrical tape around a T-20 bit to keep it from sliding and inserted it into a short 1/4” wrench, which made the tool about 2/3 as long compared to my ratchet and small enough to work in the area of the top bolt. Only after I used a pick around the edge of the hose did it loosened enough to be taken off. While standing on top of the bumper and left fender frame, I attempted a number of times pulling on the hose with no avail. I decided to go ahead installing a new valve during my spark plug replacement job and having moved some items while the intake manifold was removed, made the very tight space around the PCV valve just accessible enough to remove the hose and top bolt. Just completed replacing the PCV valve on my 2017 Willys and yes it is a tough but doable job without removing the fender liner. It isn't the most difficult repair on the Jeep, but it is far from easy due to the tight space. I saw someone else's suggestion to take out the transmission filler tube, that sounds like a great idea, if I could have ever pulled that out, i think its only one bolt, but then it would only pull up like half and inch and couldn't get it to go any further, so I gave up on that. Also, remember to reconnect the valve cover sensor connector. If the rubber end isn't lined up, then repeat. From the side, line the bottom edges up of the rubber fitting around the new PCV valve, then use some force to reattach it. Getting the hose connector back is a bit of a challenge too, the rubber fitting deforms when trying to line it up and put apply the pressure needed to slide it back on.
That will fit in there and finally got the top torx bolt loosened up a quarter turn, then reseat the torx bit and then another quarter turn, and repeat until its loose, and remove it rest of the way by hand. My secret weapon for the top bolt, is a tiny crescent wrench holding the torx bit KAIFNT K402 Screwdriver Bit Set with Mini Ratchet Wrench, 1/4-Inch Drive, 34-Piece but worked great for the bottom bolt accessed through the wheel well I ordered a small torx ratchet set off of Amazon, that was even too big to get the top torx bolt off, because the plastic valve nipple is in the way of the mini ratchet head. Took the tire and fender liner out, a must to get the bottom bolt The WD-40 should also make it easier to pull off. That hose is molded plastic so be careful you are only pulling on the rubber end fitting. Back to the strap, now that you have it looped around the hose and closest to the 90 degree bend as possible, grab both sides of the strap and pull up, firmly.
Tuck the sensor connector away in the opposite direction. I eventually disconnected the sensor on the valve cover for a little more space, this was after I got the hose disconnected, but would have been easier doing this earlier on. Make sure the strap is only going around the PCV hose and not the sensor wire near by or anything else. Fish the piece of strap down and underneath, then back up. My brilliant discovery was to use a small section of ratchet strap or some similar type of thing with nothing on either end. The top area of that hose is almost impossible get any hands and fingers on with the trans tube and other stuff in the way. Then again from underneath, use WD-40 with the little tube and spray in the area you just pried. You will only be able to get about half way around since the PCV valve body is blocking most of the connector bottom.
First, from under neath, use a pick or tiny screw driver to pry around the rubber connector. My suggestion for getting the tube off the PCV valve. Just about every step is a royal pain, there aren't alot of steps, but I gave up last weekend and ordered the mini ratchet set and then gave it another try. Having a small ratchet set with the torx bit helps a ton. I'll be honest, it took me two different days to get it done. I just finished replacing my PCV valve, was kinda a b!tch to replace.